Saturday 8 September 2012

Exit Wounds

What a week!

After the opening of Potato Salad V12 at the Villas by Tom on the weekend, I decided to go down to The Villas for the first time since coming back from europe.
Tuesday saw me attempting Contact and Potato salad, making progress on both, but unable to do their individual cruxes. After a bit of work on PS, it got way too hot and I decided to have a go at Exit wounds V10, which had always just confounded me. After a while I worked out my beta and went home to leave it for another day.

Yesterday was that day. After a quick warm-up and the realisation that I had brought my camera but left the memory card and battery at home, Exit Wounds was mine. It climbs really well and was really not as much trouble as I had always perceived it to be. Watch this poor iphone vid of the ascent.


Other than Exit Wounds, I also did Hairy Joe's Banana Shack V11 and Derailed V8. Both these climbs I've done before, but never felt 100% on, so I guess this was more just a moral headcheck for me. I finished of the day with Help into rock on, which give V7. This is probably one of the hardest V7's in all of Australia. It is ridiculous. It took me more attempts yesterday to tick this than to tick the other three combined! A very good friday indeed, next session might actually have to be at the lip now, I've been saying it for long enough haven't I?

Sunday 2 September 2012

Buffalo

So..
      Didn't actually get out as much as I wanted to last week. I did however have a nice Sissy session in which I ticked the one-move Buffalo Bill. I had originally been trying this problem from the wrong holds, making it MUCH harder than what it needed to be. Fourth shot from the correct start saw it done. I think there's a variant here worth doing, maybe from a lower start too. 
That's about it, Icecream-the Havana eliminate is shoulder-destroyingly good though.
I've got a video up, but it needs more views before I can upload it here

Video HERE

Peace.